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Bogging issues? Hesitation? Look here.

208K views 125 replies 94 participants last post by  Flumprump  
#1 ·
There seems to be a large number of threads including one from me concerning this issue. I know I am not a huge contributor to this forum. But instead being of pissed of at every person starting a thread on this and guessing an answer at them, I will write a complete checklist and diagnosis for this.

Common problem:

1. My car bogs.
2. My car runs rough.
3. My car's rpm's go up and down up and down.
4. My car after any of these eventually dies.

Lets start off with everything that doesnt cost money.

-Grounding: Sometimes the car has grounding issues. Make sure where ever you the battery ground connected to( ex. engine manifold, block, chassis)that it is tight and there is no paint or dirt in between the connection.

-Vacuum leak: The easy ones you can hear real loud the smaller one are real faint. Listen for a hissing, sucking, or whistling sound. To fix this is easy. Look for the noise is coming from and either replace the hose, tighten a clamp, or in my case(and others that have removed EGR crap; plug a hose or check your egr block off plate.).

-Exhuast gases: Make sure your car isn't blowing out extra fumes.
Brownish-oil
Bluish-oil
Black-running rich with catalytic carbon buildup
White-running rich
White with sweet smell-Coolant
If it's oil then you have a dead/blown seal/gasket. Diagnose from there. If it's coolant blown gasket/seal. Diagnose from there. If it's gas, you have leaky injectors, bad O2, or computer is running rich.

-Ignition: Check you plugs to see if they are tight. Check to see if there is a ton of carbon on them. If yes then you're running rich. If sludge, then you have oil blow by. Make sure wires are good and on snug at the plugs and distributor. Make sure the coil wire is fit snug on the coil and distributor. Make sure the plugs are on the distributor right. If you are on the driver's side looking at the distributor. There should be two plugs on top, two on bottom, one in the middle. Now the 2 on top, the left top is plug number one. Plug number one is the plug closest to the radiator. Then after that #2 #3 #4. The top right is plug number 2. The bottom left is plug number 3. The bottom right is plug number 4. The middle is goes to the coil.

-Car computer(ECU): Follow this link or paste. It will explain where to find it and how to pull codes instead of paying a mechanic, possibly saving money on buying parts to replace stuff you don't need to.
http://www.ka24development.com/ecu_codes.html

-MAF sensor/Throttle body/IACV tube: The MAF is the metal object connected to the airbox that has a plug connected to it. Clean it with carb cleaner. Throttle body( i hope you know what this is) Clean with carb cleaner if it looks dirty. IACV tube is a metal tube next to your throttle body that runs a rubber tube (about 1/2 in thick) to the inside of your plastic intake tube. Pull tube off, spray with carb cleaner to clean.

-Timing: These links will show how to set TDC(top dead center), set timing
http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8962&highlight=setting
http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=9183&highlight=setting

Once you have TDC, pull your distributor cap off the distributor. It should be held on by two bolts(10mm I believe). Now once it is off, you will see your rotor. It is flat piece of metal that rotates from the middle. While your motor is at TDC the that rotor should be sitting where plug number one would be if the cap was on.

Well that is it for now, and should solve your problems. If there is anything any knowledgeable person would like to add please do without flames.

Thanks

Joe
 
#2 ·
to add the the list here is some things I have checked or replaced but still no luck.

02 sensor
TPS
MAF
Fuel filter (300zx of corse)
cylinder leakdown test
plugs
wires
harness ground points
EGR
purge line/cannister
engine coolant temp sensor
rotor/cap
fuel pressure
compression test, wet and dry
ohm'd out the injectors
checked timming its okay
vacuum leaks
seafoam
battery
catyltic converter
exhaust leaks
waterpump (not your cause prob but I still had to replace mine)

I'm going to be fixing my timming chain rattle and see if that helps cause maybe my guide is loose or a tensior is gummed up, I dunno. that and I plan on getting my car on a chassis dyno, put it under load and hit it with a timming gun.


and if you want something that help diagnose your plugs this is a great site (from PDM Racing):
http://www.pdm-racing.com/features/plugs.html

and this gets a sticky since it seems to come up alot and the same questions and answers are comming up.
 
#11 ·
Fidelity101 said:
No problem :)

I'm trying to get to the bottom of my bogging, its pissing me off cause my car teases me.

sometimes its wicked quick. other times its slow as balls :(


I'd also like to note that my KA gets a surge of power at 5200rpm and climbs to nearly redlines but hesitates from like 2000-2500 rpm to 5200 rpm.
try bleeding the coolant system. There are air bubles ub the coolant that go around the ECT and give it bad info so it fucks everything up. there's a lil skrew in the coolant passage. lossen that while the car is running (with the cap off) and let the air come out (you will see bubbles) untill you get solid coolant coming out. then you add coolant as needed in the radiator


thats the quick and easy verison :thumbsup
 
#12 · (Edited)
Found out my sputtering and weak acceleration are caused by a bad knock sensor and that my bad idle was caused by a bad speed sensor(located on the transmission). First thing you guys wanna check is for ecu codes if you think you are having troubles, that way you can save yourself time and money from not buying what you don't need..

Codes that came up are code 14 and code 34 fyi.

(UPDATE) Turns out it wasn't the speed sensor causing idle flucuation. Bought a bottle of seafoam and my idle problem is all cleared up..
 
#16 ·
i have that dreaded ebrake light on along with the buzzing noise. when i get on the gas the light sometimes goes off and the buz turns on. also my car has a lot of low hesitation and doesnt like to idle for the 1st couple seconds after start up. i checked fuses and found the engine cont fuse 10a is blown so i replaced it and it blew again right away. ill replace it and the problem goes away and everything is fine until i rev it up a tiny bit and the fuse blows. anyone know why the fuse keeps blowing? thanks
 
#59 ·
I have an 89 that the e brake light did that. if you remove the center console / armrest you will see the little sensor that triggers the light they somtimes bend from hard e braking or wear and tear, most of the time like mine you can bend the metal back that preeses the sensor or tighten a loose conection if not get a sensor from a junk 240. hope this helps it wont do anything for the hesitation that sounds like a short in the wire harnes, you might of melted two wires near the motor or exhaust manifold and now they make contact.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Seems like boggin issues are common on 240sx here in my area there are 3 240sx including myself and all of them have the same boggin issue! :S
1989 240sx fastback
1993 Coupe
and mine 93 fastback!

:S checkin my plugs yesterday i replaced em due to alot of carbon on em:S running rich! so today i am gonna check everything and change my speed sensor becoz sometimes my auto tranny doesnt shit until i remove the O/D weird! :S

BOGGIN Issue RePAIRED!! :D
I just redid my Ground
cleaned em up good
Filled my tank full and put FOrmula 1 Injector cleaner
Changed my sparkplugs!(had alot of carbon on em)
Cleaned my Mafs with seafoam!
thats all i needed! Best luck look at ur plugs first! they tell u everything(well almost!)
also my bad idle was cause by brakes needed to be bleaded! i noticed that everytimes i pumped the brakes the car would idle at almost 500 rpm and then i just moved a little and it went back up to 800 rpm!
 
#23 ·
thanks for the info guys...this really helps..gives me some ideason where to go for my issues. after i sea foamed my car it took away most of the idle issues...but still after i run it a little while it will hesitate alot when i put my foot on the gas the rpm drops below five hundred then kinda shoots up
 
#55 ·
my car has done that a few times, once because i put bad gas in it, so i just put more to dilute it, the other time was with my 280zx and it just fixed itself after it ran so idk what was wrong with it, but if you open the throttle you get more air, but if you dont get enough gas its gonna do that
 
#24 ·
jumping idle when stopped

my car is sarting to do the same thing now...when its cold the idle is steady, but when it warms up or a short 5 min drive, it will start to idle between 500 and 1000 rpms ONLY when im at a complete stop. Ive read this sticky and it has informed me a lot of what to look for but my question is...which one of the diagnosis should i try first for my idling problem? has anyone elses car had the same exact symptoms as mine and what, if any, fixed the problem? im just trying to limit my diagnosis time because recently its been hard to find time to work on my car. Any feedback is appreciated.
 
#62 ·
my car is sarting to do the same thing now...when its cold the idle is steady, but when it warms up or a short 5 min drive, it will start to idle between 500 and 1000 rpms ONLY when im at a complete stop. Ive read this sticky and it has informed me a lot of what to look for but my question is...which one of the diagnosis should i try first for my idling problem? has anyone elses car had the same exact symptoms as mine and what, if any, fixed the problem? im just trying to limit my diagnosis time because recently its been hard to find time to work on my car. Any feedback is appreciated.
Maybe the MAF