valve guides did you replace them??? could be a broken oil control ring or bad valve guides

 

when i built my old ka i didnt line up the rings rite and it blew oil to... you might want to check your rings or valve guides

 

did you put the rings and pistons in your self

 

Yeah the whole build up was done by me and a friend that has built many engines in the past. I'm thinking we might have installed the oil rings the wrong way, though at the time everything seemed right. I'm thinking about just tearing it apart again and having a shop build it back up so I know its right.

 

no dont tear it all apart this is what you do ---
1st pull all your spark plugs
2nd drop your oil pan
3rd unbolt all your crank shaft caps
4th unbolt all your conecting rods from your crank
5th pull your crank shaft out
6th pull all your pistons out
7th replace all the rings with new ones
THIS IS HOW I DID MINE you dont need to pull the whole thing apart i did it in one day
i put the ring gaps 1/4 apart from eachother making shure none of them lined up
to finish up just reverse steps 7-1

 

What kind of crack are you smoking?
The pistons cannot come out the bottom...much less go back in. Dont make shit up and cause somebody a lot of extra work and heartache.
Even if they could it would take much longer than just pulling the motor.

It tried this theory to check my bearings because i spun one. Well it took like 8 hours just to get the upper oil pan off, and that is only possible by loosening the mounts and raising the motor anyway.

The motor only takes a few hours to pull, and a few hours to put back in and things are much easier to work on outside of the car.


Back to the main point
You might want to give it some time anyway, and let the rings seat and wear the crosshatch down. My friend new motor was burning oil and seems to have stopped or slowed.
As long as you keep your car full of oil it shouldnt do any real damage. So just give it some time and see what happens.

Also pull your plugs and see if any are oil coated, and if any are worse than the others.

 

out of curiosity....

how do u plan to compress the rings on to the piston to slide it back in from the bottom...because i have never seen this in my life

 

I was wondering the same thing. Thanks for the help so far guys.

 

dont forget to remove the piston squirters aswell. it would be a bitch to get those pistons out without removing those too....

 

yea... just go with your first idea and do it the right way. either have a shop do it, or pull it out and take your time.

 

I think it is either the valve guides or the seals, cuz it only burns oil when vacuum is high, when the car is idling and right when you let off the throttle there is a lot of vacuum, pull the head and make sure that the valve seals are installed correctly.

 

Most of my friends are thinking the same thing but I duno why the valve guides or seals would have went bad considering I didn't touch the head and it was in perfect shape before. Only thing I can think of is since the engine is new it has higher compression than my old one, and that may have caused the valve seals to go if they weren't in the greatest shape before. I'm leaning towards me installing the oil control ring the wrong way though. I've decided to just tear it apart and take it to my local machine shop and have them build it, I'm also going to have them take a look at the valve seals and guides while I'm at it. Thanks for the responses guys.

 

i was gonna say piston rings too. my buddie's race motor rings didn't seat for like 5K miles. now its 15K later and the sucker hauls.

 

you could have put the piston in backwards was the arrows on the piston heads facing the front of the car when you put them in?

 

The JE pistons don't have an arrow, they are placed in based on the cut outs for the valves, both intake and exhaust, and I'm 100% sure I did that correct. I think right now that its the oil control rings, ill figure it out and post what the machine shop tells me either tomorrow or wednesday when I take it down there. Thanks again guys

 

good luck with everyhting

 

if you put the pistons in backwards it would smash the piston squirters and break them... Ive been through that.

On my second build I had the machine shop hone/bore and do the bearings. After I put it all together and primed the oil pump it started up on the first crank and ran perfect. Im sure that any engine should start the same way if built properly.

My first engine was similar to yours. It blew alot of smoke under boost, but was fine when idling. The I thought it could have been bad valve seals so I replaced the head and it didnt make a diffrence. I had alot of blowby and that motor later had a bearing fail...

 

isnt there a possibility it could just be a turbo? my friend's SR turbo had alot of shftplay so he swapped it with a "rebuilt" one. tons of blowyby. swapped to another turbo, problem solved. I'd just hate to see you do all this and it just be a turbo.

 

I'm not 100% sure its not the turbo but I'm pretty sure it isn't. I had this turbo on the engine before I spun a bearing and decided to rebuild, and it didn't burn any oil or have oil in the combustion chamber then. The only chance it was the turbo is if somehow something happened to the turbo when I had it off, which I'm pretty sure nothing did.

 

"Well, after I noticed it was burning oil I took it back to my house and took out the plugs, and sure enough there was a good sized puddle of oil in each cylinder."


Like Dolby said I would drive it around a little more and see if it gets better.

 

Oops...didnt see that part.
But I did forget to ask...did you check the clearance on your rings before installing them?

To do this you just take one or more rings and put them in a cyl and check the gap with a feeler guage.
I have a feeling you got oversized pistons and they sent stock sized rings.

 

my guess is that you honed the block but didnt upgrade your pistons to the right size... because usually people hone the cylinder then upgrade to 86.5mm

 

Bore, not hone. Hone is just making the surface of the cylinders have that nice hatching like brand new. The purpose of a slight overbore is to take any ovalness out of the cylinder.

 

Correct, the engine was honed not bored thus it retains the stock sized pistons as well as rings. And the rings were file gapped by me, they are all within stock spec so I know the rings are sealing properly on the cylinder walls. Even if the rings haven't fully seated yet I don't see any reason why massive amounts of oil should be able to get past the rings, I mean there was a good amount when I took the plugs out, which didn't seem normal at all to me. Im pretty sure I didn't install the oil control ring correctly as I didn't know there was a specific method to installing it. Should be fixed later in the week, thanks for all the help guys.

 

most new motors will smoke until everything is seated properly. i'm not sure if mine does but thats only cause its got an open header at themoment lol

it shouldn't smoke a ton though, that'd be kinda odd.

 

Was there oil in every cyl?
I could see the engine sucking oil past a bad valve stem seal when under a lot of vac (idle or engine braking)

As for the oil seal ring there are like three per cyl...
And I believe they should all be seperated by 90 degrees
As far as I remember the oil rings didnt appear to have a top and bottom like the compression rings did.
But its been a while since I built my motor.

 

Yeah every cylinder had a decent amount of oil in it, enough where it was fouling out all my plugs. Yeah the oil control rings don't have a top or bottom, but ive heard from a few people that if you don't install the rings in the proper position then it'll leak oil into the combustion chamber like mine is doing. So I'm guessing that's the reason its leaking so much oil in, unless the rings will position them self somehow after driving it for a while thus stoping the leak?

 

have you checked your compression yet?

 

Yes, I checked the compression and all the cylinders came out around 125 psi which is pretty good for a rebuilt engine that hasn't be driven for more than a few miles. This number really isn't accurate in finding out if my oil control ring is at fault, since I know for sure my 2 compression rings are perfect so the cylinder should still have good compression, even if I installed the oil ring the wrong way. At least thats what I have been told by some of my friends. Ive got the engine out of the car now and im going to tear it down/rebuild it again today so ill let you guys know how it goes in a few days. Thanks again to everyone who offered help and advice.

 

thats some shity luck man hope it works out.

 

i have almost the same problem in my new motor... i had 500 miles on the since the rebuilt and it started smoking...but when i pulled off the spark plugs only my #4 cylinder was the problem not all of them... right now i have 700 miles on it right now and i am hopen that it might go away lol..if it doesn't by 2000 miles i am gonna pull out the motor and check it out