that stereo thing is probably placebo on your mind and just throwing the people who would help you off. the stereo doesn't affect engine performance unless you drive an alpha romeo.

i have the same problem as you, it could be a vacuum leak, start spraying that leak finder all over your hoses and if its not that, correct everything that your codes turn.

if you just recently bought this car and then just pounded the throttle, the previous owner probably ditched the car for whatever reason and did a mickey mouse job to cover everything up hence the brief moment of beautifully running before you revved it past 6k rpm and popped something loose/off.

how many miles on your trip from when you fill the tank to E? it should be at least 300 from F to E and then another 50 or so miles after that before you completely run out of gas (E isn't empty)

 

I have owned my 240 for 9 years, and this is a progressive problem. Idk about the gas mileage, however. Thank you about the reassurance with my system. I went up to autozone to try to get some opinions, but the douchebags there told me the problem was that i owned a nissan... F-king A$$holes. Do you think it could be the EGR???

 

from what you say I would say its defenitely an engine problem./ electrical. Bogging usually is a misfire due to your sparks, or something due to your MAF sensor. I had a bogging problem but nothing that would just start and end like what you're describing. I would say Cure all those codes and then if its still giving out problems REPOST.

 

how do you know the mileage is bad then?

i don't think its egr. i tried replacing and to no avail.

 

I can drive to my friends house, 7-10 min, and almost see the gas being eaten.... I have 235,147 miles on the chassis, and I've taken it to two mechanics who both say diff crap...

 

id try changing the oxygen sensors. If you smell gas under the hood its prob runnin rich. the oxygen sensors read the exhaust and adjust the fuel as they see fit.. if ones bad it could be causin the injectors to dump to much fuel hence the poor mileage and gas smell

 

an easy way to check that is simply checking for fluid in your tail pipe after you drive. or have someone follow you to the market after your cars been warmed up. someone driving behind you can easily see if your running rich by watching your muffler squirt fuel out every time you depress to shift. but if your mufflers elevated upwards you could try sticking something in there and seeing if theres boiling gasoline unburnt collecting inside.

 

Ok... I drove it today, and I ordered the crankshaft positioning sensor and a rear oxygen sensor for it... I went to Wikipedia and looked up the crankshaft sensor and it said this:


The Crankshaft position sensor, or (CKP) monitors the Crankshaft position and No#1 cylinder piston position while the engine is running. this information is sent to the engine's ECM. ( Electronic Control Module) the ECM then uses this information to calculate several operating parameters for engine performance but mostly it is used to operate the engine's Ignition system ( coil (s) and spark plugs).
Back in the day' you could replace your "points style distributor" for an "Electroinic-Ignition system" very much like todays MSD distributors. many of those used a Cam-sensor which essentially performed the same function. some used a Crank-sensor instead.
basically:these sensors tell the ECM when to fire the spark plugs. before that it was all done with a set of "points" inside the distributor. hope this helps

So the parts by the way will be here in two days, and I will post an update on if it is fixed or not.... Thanks to all that helped, and I will let all know within a week.... My 240 and I thank you..

On another note, I went to oreilly's autoparts, and I got a price of $184 for the two sensors, and then went to advanced autoparts and got them for $118 after a 10% rebate b/c i went to Oreilly's first and told him about my experience. Then I got a dude that does work for $40 an hour. So, God willing, I will get out of this for $160 roughly... Wish me luck.

 

Sugggestions needed, Have 24 HRS to make decision

OK so today, I paid for the parts and talked to the mechanic that is going to fix my car, he said that he is available for two hours tomorrow to fix the car. I know that this process doesn't take that long to accomplish, but I would like to use the cheap labor to do some other things while he has it in the air. Does anyone have any suggestions as to things that are quick and easy to clean to eat up about an hour and a half and why on the 240sx se? That would be beneficial to me. Remember that I have new wires, plugs, distr. cap, button, and knock sensor. Any suggestions would help me out.

 

Not really...nothing you'd need a lift for. Clean your underside.

 

OK... so the mechanic fixed the two sensors, and then I found out that I had a coolant leak where he had to break down the manifold to get to, and found some more bad lines and fixed my A/C and changed my oil for an additional $250 so my car should be in tip top... i am going to drive to go see this chick tomorrow, so I will see what is good tomorrow...

 

So today I tried to see this girl, and the car started to do the same thing again, idling funny and wanting to cut off on me. IDK what to do now... Maybe change the distributor itself? Or coils? Could somebody help me??? please>>>>>>>>>>>

 

You don't have coils

 

What does the 240 have instead of ignition coils? And should I change the distributor? is this a common problem with the s-14?

 

You have cap and wire vs coilpacks. STi has coilpacks. No wires or distributor.

 

So, since I don't have coils, should I check the distributor out? or what else would make the car misfire and then cut off after 20min.?

 

engine temp sensor?

 

recheck the car for codes and see if the old ones cleared or if any new ones showed up

 

All of my codes have cleared out now. I had my mechanic take a look at my distributor and it had carbon deposits all over it. It literally looked like my car has been snorting powder....... The entire case was white with carbon deposits. I was told that I should get a new distributor now, and that this is the cause of my problems. Does anyone have suggestions on Distributors???????? MSD, A1 Cardone? I want to take advantage of this situation for the better. I can smell an upgrade....... Any thoughts???

 

Autozone special. It's not going to make a difference at your power levels.

 

yea id just go w a stock replacement as well...
Also you do have an ignition coil but its only one.. not one per cylinder like newer cars... hopefully that is still in good working condition bc if not it is fairly expensive

 

Are you sure that I have an ignition coil? I looked it up on google and no part came up.... Wouldn't that be fairly common? The 94 and below have coils, but I have a 94.5 with a 96 engine. If I am missing something, someone please send a link or something so that I can find one if I need it. I am going with the A1 Cardone Ignition Distributor because it is a direct OEM replacement and it can be shipped out and to me by monday. I am actually going to order the part after I finish this post.

 

I had the same issue. I replaced the MAF and it ran just fine, and my gas mileage doubled from about 12mpg to 24 mpg. Unfortunately the MAF I got is now failing, at least I think that's the problem. So looking for a replacement. Symptoms now are: When accelerating at high RPM's my engine sputters. If I keep it up I get a code. I cleared the codes out a while back and don't rev it up anymore.

Here is a link to my issue:
http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/ka24de-t-ka24e/123247-95-s14-ka24de-maf-problem.html

As you can see I got no replies to my question. I just kept on searching the internet and took a shot in the dark.

Good luck, let us know if it's the MAF. Borrow a MAF from someone, am sure there are some 240sx enthusiasts around your area..


Brewsky

 

Sick of this crap!!!!!!

Ok.....So I had the distributor changed, and now it is running bad all the time. IDK if it was installed wrong, or what. I also tried the MAF and the car evened out until I plugged it back in. The car is still running funny. I checked my computer again this morning after I installed the new MAF and it still ran the same if not worse. These new codes are being thrown:

11-camshaft position sensor- which I can't find info on anywhere
41-intake air temp sensor - I think it was throwing this one because I was messing with the MAF
68-#1 cylinder misfire - again

Does anyone think that my distributor needs readjusting? It did run fine for the first day I got it back, and then went back to the crapper. :gaah:I am going to the mechanic tomorrow to see if he can readjust it...... I don't know what else to do at this point. I am almost ready to sell the car. If anyone can help me... I would be greatly appreciative. I love this car, and had great times in it. I just got a new paint job on it 9 months ago. PPPPPPLLLLLEEEEAAAAAAAAASSSSSSSSEEEEE help!!!!!