Are the fans constantly on?
If not at what temp do they turn on?

my setup:
RB25DET, '89 240sx radiator with a 10inch Permacool fan- no shroud- sidemount intercooler- no AC condenser- Silvia Aero bumper.
Temps will go between 160-177 with the thermoswitch for the fan kicking in at 175 degrees F and it cools back down fast.
During all this the stock needle doesn't budge AT ALL, LOL.

Your 97 C = 206 F and that is WAY hot.
http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-fahrenheit.htm

 

The needle on the gauge cluster doesnt go pass halfway, but my power fc tells me its running that hot--upwards of 97* celcius. My fans are on from a toggle switch-- I turn it on when it hits about 60* celcius.

 

Something isn't right because the stock needle should be reading the exact same signal as the PowerFC- so one is lying. The stock needle would be in the red practically if it was running that hot.
I suggest getting an electrical water temp gauge from autometer because you're not going to sleep well at night.

Can you be more specific- where are your temp senders mounted? Upper Radiator/lower radiator/block?!

 

replace your thermostat, i bet its sticking.

 

your gauge uses a different sensor then your ECU.

 

the 2 sensors are side by side.. 1 wire = gauge. also, got consult working and i checked my temp.. it never passes 180F.. sits about 177 i think.

 

Mine doesnt get over 80 degrees on the hottest day when I'm racing....and I have pretty much the same setup as you as far as cooling. Check the thermostat.

 

I also have the autometer temp gauge sending unit located in the upper radiator hose = temp before going into radiator.
I had it in the lower radiator hose at first = didn't read jack/not very accurate.

 

what thermostae does the rb20 use? - do i have to get a rb20 thermo or does a 300zx one work or something.?

 

z32 tt thermostat works in the rb20.
has to be a tt one tho because the na one is too hot and will open too late.

 

during the summer my rb20 doesnt go over 85*celsius ever and lately this winter it'll be between 76-85*

also my cooling is as follows:
2 A/C fans wired to a switch
A31 radiator

 

I would bet the commander is displaying the temp wrong.
The motor would be toast by now.

 

Just got back from Vegas trip. Boy was that expensive. Anyways, thanks for the input guys, I guess Im runngin a tad hotter than what I should be running then. Ill be checking the thermostat out when I have the chance. Im thinking the the gauge cluster might be wrong because it is sending temperature in Celcius instead of fahrenheit.

 

both your gauges are innaccurate to begin with.....
playing with your thermostat will be a waste.....
get accurate readings and go from there.....
sounds like your car runs fine......

 

interesting my runs at 80c most of the time hits like 93c on freeway intercooler blocks all air but my car never boiled coolant or seemed too hot i have a greddy electric temp gauge with the sender welded right to were the upper hose goes in maybe it depends on were the sender is and coolant/water mixture
cooling is stock rb radiator greddy cap 2 12 pushers samco hoses

 

saw somebody with a link to conver celsuis to farenheit, just a little fyi for you guys the conversion for celsius to farenheit is
c=celsuis f=farenheit (duh)
c(9)= x
X/5=y
y+32=your farenheit tempurature

ypur c temp times 9 diveded by 5 add 32

just reerse the fromula for f to c

 

We had a forumla in chemestry taht was alot easyer than that.....but cant remember what it was. Oh well

 

Fahrenheit to Celsius C = ( F - 32) / 1.8
Celsius to Fahrenheit F = C × 1.8 + 32

 

I havent driven the car long enough to see how hot it will go up to, but when hitting the freeway for a couple of minutes, it begins to drop to like 92 *C . The weather out here is pretty cold too---around 40* F.

I just ordered a coolant temp from autometer, should be here pretty soon. Havent have time to look at the sensor nor the thermostat though. Until then, its the RX300.

 

Got the autometer gauge install a couple days ago, which gives me bad news. Im running out!!! The power fc was accurate. I drive it for a longer time now, and it reaches up to 108*. What do you guys think could be the problem? Heres what I did so far for cooling issues--Koyo , dual 12" FAL pushers,Nismo cap, vented carbon hood,raised hood,large bumper openings(fmic is kinda in the way though), new sensors, thermostat, water wetter, and bleeding the cooling system. Ill do a compression and leak down test whenever I have the chance.

 

i would venture a guess that the water pump has taken a poo and is not moving any water at all.
its a long shot but possible and as you have already changed most of the crap out its one of the only things left.

 

When at idle before I drive it---it stays steady at around 78*C. When driven---it keeps climbing up, which makes me pull over. So I Turn off the ignition for around 3 min, and temperature drops like 10* C. This $hit is weird. Its so freaking cold out here too--35*F---which is 1.7*C.

 

cant it be because of the air/fuel mixture..... i know if your running too lean it runs hot. my homeboy has an rb20 and his temperature fluctuates a grip. any ideas?

 

your timing could be retarted as well.
retarted timing = higher runing temp
advance = hihger piston temp = melted pistons

thats what i was told from a dsm owner that dosent have adjustible timing so if im wrong im sorry

 

i have had mine approach 110 C so i had to pull over. Too hot for my blood.
Im hoping an N1 waterpump will help... My EGT's arent high enough for ignition to be the problem.