[cleland500]

Anyone Please...Idle Problem

Hey there guys, I am new here to the forums. Sorry if this question has been asked a lot. I have a 1991 240sx with no mods, yet.

Here is the problem, sometimes when I am driving and I come to a stop I push the clutch in and the car stalls, the tach just drops and the car stalls out. I have heard this is a common problem. Anyone know of an effective and cheap way to fix this. I took off my Idle Air control valve (I think that is what it's called) and cleaned it out, no help. Thanks again.

 

[GoofyCA18DET]

Just raise your idle thats what I had to do.

 

[ShadyCajun]

I have a similar problem man...so i know how ya feel...i haven't gotten around to diagnosing mine yet, but I heard it can be a number of things...a vacuum leak, bad O2 sensor, bad injectors, etc...So those are a few things you might wanna look into...

Hope that helps a little,

Micah

 

[jbeach43]

I am havin the same prob.
I have replaced the:
Spark Plugs, Wires, Distributor Car, Rotor, Fuel Filter, Air Cleaner Element, and made sure nothing was blocking the air intake pipe.

I even followed Sykikchimp's suggestion, No fix.
I am thinking of getting the cataylic convertor replaced next.
I have checked all of my vaccum hoses and they are all connected. Mine only does it when it is cold out and the engine has warmed up. Bot not all of the time when I come to a stop.

If you come up with anything please pass it along.

Linky

 

[Hurricane]

jbeach, have you checked the error codes on the cars computer? It should give you a good place to start.

 

[yellow_jacket]

did you check for vacuum leaks already?

 

[jbeach43]

Hey Hurricane;

My ECU reads a code of 55.

I had my Cat Convertor replaced this morning. Haven't had a chance to test the car.

 

[Hurricane]

As far as I know error code 55 means that everything is okay.

 

[NoNameCanXplain]

I had a ecu code 55, but I was having stalling problems. When I redid all the grounds, and redid the connection for the water temp sensor to guage, I started getting the codes I was looking for. First was the water temp sensors (replaced them) then it was the fuel pump. Check all your grounds and connections, cause the ecu doesn't see a problem, might be a bad connection...something that isn't on isn't going to cause an error like something on that fails...

 

[MaStA]

Well I don't stall anymore, I use to sometimes but don't anymore. In a few days I am installing NGK V-Power copper core plugs, Aurora 8.5mm ignition wires, new distributor cap and roter, oxygen sensor, pcv valve(if I can get to it..on DOHC's its a pain), and check for vacume leaks. Cause my idle goes up and down. Whats ways to check for vacume leaks, yellow_jacket said carb cleaner to spray on hoses and if it sucks it in it makes rpm's go up but for me thats too hard cause the rpms go to like 1200 and go down to like 700 then back up so it would be normal for it to go up and down and mislead me. When I shift and just give it gas it kinda jerks and hesitates to kick in like there is no gas but fuel pump and all is good...any ideas on what causes this caue if I could fix the idle and this hesitation my car would be running perfect. Hopefully all the stuff I am replacing will fix this...

Jared

 

[w30post]

Are you still fighting this problem? My TPS is acting up and sounds similar to what you are describing. Just another place to look if you haven't fixed it yet.
James

 

[MaStA]

My idle doesn't go up any down anymore but my idle is a little high which it stays at like 900. I shot some carb cleaner down the vacume host that goes to the unit in the back, which fixed the problem. Now when I get low on fuel only sometimes I start jerking until I put some gas in. I will be testing to see if the gas looks all crummy before the fuel filter and that could mean my tank is rusty or something.

Jared

 

[warpig2003]

i had this problem bad when i first rebuilt my engine. it was really annoyin cuase the engine was brand new pretty much, but still didnt run right. i replace the fuel pump, still no fix. so my dad got under the hood and started yanking on things checking for shorts. well, he fixed it but didnt know how exactly. now it will sink down when it idles and get close to dieing every once in a while, but never die. i keep meening to look into it, but havent got around to it.

also, i think it doesnt stall tho is because my car insists on idling at 1000. no matter where we adjust the idle to, it ALWAYS goes back to 1000. is this a thing to worry bout with my ecu or anything? thanks.

 

[LiteEmUp_prof]

for some reason last nite i was driving and all of a sudden i got to a light n id be idling at 7-900 rpm
and it jumped to 2200rpm and stays there. it was dark out so i really couldnt check much.
ny ideas?

BTW im changin my injectors soon im gonna go get a set of injectors off a nissan stanza since they carry same engine. will i be lookin at any problems? or no

 

[Nialbe]

It could be anything. Try doing the cheapest things first like. Fuel Injector Cleaner, then try cleaning the throttle body, that helped for me a little. I am going to try replacing the fuel filter next. check for vacuume leaks, and check to see if your air filter is really dirty. I have a similar problem. But its kind of getting better, except once when i went to get my fuel filter at autozone, my car wouldn't start, so i had to keep trying to start it, until it finally started :\

 

[LiteEmUp_prof]

found the problem the leaky injector now has been cracked so i think its constantly running. im gonna go get used injectors wed mornin. off either another 240 or a stanza. jus really quick the stanza injectors will work for a SOHC 240 rite? i think it will since its the same engine

 

[dousan]

you guys are not doing the EASIEST FIRST!

air fliter replace
clean IIAV (remove and clean)--takes 1/2 hour max)
clean TB
check vacuum hose

i am confident the IIAV will be the culprit. most of the time it is

it is held behind intake manifold. it is what controls airflow when TB is closed! so if yo uoff throttle and clutch in, the TB is closed..if IIAV is dirty/clogged of course it will die (not enough air)

its held in by 4 bolts. hard to reach...but you can do it with a small socket wrench. remove it, spray the hell out of it with carb cleaner, replace..try car again...if not, try more drastic measure..new injectors...etc..

 

[LiteEmUp_prof]

my prob is im idlin at 2.2k only stalls at high speed clutch is put in, besides im not payin for injectors. im relocting them

 

[D1GP]

Hey Hurricane;

My ECU reads a code of 55.

I had my Cat Convertor replaced this morning. Haven't had a chance to test the car.

wouldnt a cat on a naturally aspirated low horse power car be bad if you're already stalling alot, becuz u lose a lot of low rpmz. wouldnt this make u stall even worse

 

[LiteEmUp_prof]

found the problem, seems that no one has cleaned the throttle body in 13yrs it was caked with black shit. i used half a bottle on it . now another question it seems that my throttle cable as gotten loose and that is the cause of my 2200rpm idle. i can push on the back of it and it goes straight to regular idle. and i checked the tension on the cable and its pretty loose any specific way i could go about fixin that?