DAYUM. Thats a clean ass 240 for $450!!!!!!!! BASTARD!!!!! I paid $450 for mine to but it looked like a $450 dollar car .

 

^seriously

everything looks real good, I hope you have better luck with this swap than you had with the rb25

 

when i saw the front pic when it was still wet and shit i was all holy shit that is clean.

some how i got my motor out in like 3 hours, but then again the only thing attached ti it was rad, intahe , exhasut, driveshaft and wiring harness so that makes it easier... as wel as it only beingin therhe for 3 mothns lol


but ya good luck on the swap! and its hard to tell how clean that engien bay is becuase its a weird light kinda night time...but if you look on the wheel well part you cna see it shinig lol.

 

That does look really good. Keep posting pics.

 

why are there 2 threads for the same thing.
one in the S13 threads, and one in th RB threads

you only need one.

 

holy hell, where do u find a 240 that clean for 450 bucks? i thought mine was decent for 350 bucks w/ no engine or trans! Keep us updated man i am watching this thread!

 

why are there 2 threads for the same thing.
one in the S13 threads, and one in th RB threads

you only need one.

Because, this thread was intended on being a write up and step by step on the RB20 install. Purchasing the car itself happened to be a part of the process and was why it was mentioned here.

The other thread was intended for view by other s13 owners, seeing how RB S13's are quite few compared to S13 SR20, KA-T, CA18. I was just more or less showing my 240.

:12dunno

 

UPDATE:

Day 3: Picked up motor from JHOT in Augusta, brought it home, and unloaded it.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

At JHOT: Removed downpipe and auto tranny before loading into the truck.

Loading motor into the truck.

Strapped the motor down.

Arrived at home.

Unloading the motor.

Rb20 dp, intercooler, to be reused.

I was pissed when I discovered the turbo coolant line had been cut. Thats ok, I fixed it with some fuel line and made a little heat shield to protect the rubber portion from turbine heat.

Torque converter and flex plate still attached.

Removed the torque converter and flexplate. Ready for flywheel/clutch.

Removed A/C and Power Steering.

The lonely, motorless 240 awaiting its new heart.

 

lookin good man, but make sure to put a manual tranny pilot bearing in the crank else bad things will happen.
jhot is awesome i got my engine from them waaay waaaay back.

 

lookin good man, but make sure to put a manual tranny pilot bearing in the crank else bad things will happen.
jhot is awesome i got my engine from them waaay waaaay back.

Thanks man. Yeah, I've got the Spec Stage 1 clutch kit on its way. It should have the 300zx N/A pilot bearing included. I've got a friend with a Mazda SST pilot bearing removal tool so that might make quick work of the auto bushing.

Was your motor originally an auto?

 

Was your motor originally an auto?

nope my motor was a full fleged manual when i got the clip.
i was just remembering back to when one of my friends did his auto to manual rb20 swap and he forgot to change the pilot bushing and it made horrible noises.
ya gonna be at NICO's meet at nopi this year? im gonna try to make it down there and meet some of you guys......

 

Mine was auto and it was awful to get out. It was so stuck that I had to cut it out.

 

nope my motor was a full fleged manual when i got the clip.
i was just remembering back to when one of my friends did his auto to manual rb20 swap and he forgot to change the pilot bushing and it made horrible noises.
ya gonna be at NICO's meet at nopi this year? im gonna try to make it down there and meet some of you guys......

I'm gone to try to be at the Nopi NICO meet. My parents live about 10min from ATL motor speedway, so I've got a place to stay for sure.

This will be the 2nd time I try to get an RB powered car to Nopi and hopefully this time i'll suceed.

 

I had a manual, but i changed the bearing anyway. I had to cut mine out as well.

 

modestmouse/s14-240: Did you guys use the N/A 300zx pilot? Did it work fine?

Also what did you use to cut it out? On my last Rb, it was a copper material so I used a narrow chisel and broke it into small pieces for removal.

 

modestmouse/s14-240: Did you guys use the N/A 300zx pilot? Did it work fine?

Also what did you use to cut it out? On my last Rb, it was a copper material so I used a narrow chisel and broke it into small pieces for removal.

The 300zx pilot bushing should work. I used a 240sx pilot bushing because I had to get a different clutch kit...different story. It worked fine though, no weird noises. All of the Nissan pilot bushings should be the same so you can use either.

I don't think the bushing you're talking about cutting out is the same. It definately is not copper (must have been your old pilot). I'll include a pic of the bushing if you don't mind. I used a chisel and had little luck. I ended up messing it up so bad that I had to grind it down until the pilot bushing could fit past it (it's remnants are still there). I tried everything before this. I borrowed a friends awesome slidehammer and it didn't work either. The problem that prevents a slidehammer from working here is the lack of a lip on the back of the bushing for it to lock into.

The way to get this thing out is to get a rod machined to the exact inner diameter of this bushing (know it sounds excessive) and fill the chamber with grease. Really pack it in. Then take a big ol' hammer and give it a whack. The grease will force this bushing out cleanly and without scarring the end of your crank. My bushing will be in the end of the crankshaft forever. There is no way to take it out short of taking it to a machine shop. :tears

Good luck.

 

^^

Thanks for the info man. I'm actually pretty freaked out about the pilot bushing. Maybe yours was a fluke, or at least I hope so. On my Rb25 the pilot was copper or copper mix and I just used a chisel to break it up.

 

You know there are two different bushings right? I already told you that the copper bushing you're talking about was your old pilot. Most pilots are of a copper color. The thing in my pictures IS NOT the pilot bushing. It's what I had to cut/grind out.

 

make sure you get the correct flywheel bolts as well to attach the flywheel. There is an MT marked on the head of each bolt to let you know you got the right ones. Just a heads up.

 

Yeah Carl's friend was me. That was really bad idea. I didn't replace the old one with the manual bushing that came with my clutch (dumbass). It made horrible noises like my car was gonna drop its tranny and blow the clutch. It made horrible clutch slip noises. Anyway with me having to pull the motor once because I had to put the tranny and motor on as one piece and having to pull it again to replace that bushing. I have had my engine out many times. Now everything is all good and well in a sense. Currently I'm dealing with replacing my water pump while the engine is in the car this should be fun. I should have replaced it and the timing belt before I installed it. Now I get to pay for it with a ticking water pump that is about to go and not cooling my engine. Do it right or pay the price. For flywheel bolts I had to use my KA flywheel bolts and they fit fine but the auto ones cannot be used. Their heads are freakin huge.
~ANDREW~

Oh yeah to get that pilot out I took a pair of vice grips and clamped wicked hard on the end sticking out. Then I took a hammer to that or was it a 3lb sledge. Hummm... I'm a bit violent but it comes out without too much trouble.

 

You know there are two different bushings right? I already told you that the copper bushing you're talking about was your old pilot. Most pilots are of a copper color. The thing in my pictures IS NOT the pilot bushing. It's what I had to cut/grind out.

So what exactly is this thing that I'll be looking for? I'm getting confused now because I thought it was the auto pilot bushing but you say it is something else?

Thanks for the help! :thumbsup

 

It's on the motor side where the shaft of the tranny goes into the engine. Its the bearing that surrounds that shaft. Just put the NA 300z one in and you are good to go.
~ANDREW~

 

It's on the motor side where the shaft of the tranny goes into the engine. Its the bearing that surrounds that shaft. Just put the NA 300z one in and you are good to go.
~ANDREW~

So you are saying, remove the auto pilot bushing and put the n/a 300z in and not worry about the other bushing that modestmouse is talking about?

 

I don't know what the heck modest mouse is talking about. I know I replaced the thrust bearing and pilot bushing that is in the motor where the tranny shaft goes. Replace that and put the 300zx clutch on and your good to go. None others need replacing.

 

Cool. Thanks. I know how to do all of that of course.

Maybe modestmouse had an AWD trans or AWD Auto?

Mosest will you let us know your thoughts?

Thanks!