After driving it off and on. And reseting the ECU once more i am still getting code #14 , and #34 . I am assuming the ECU was not reset in awhile accounting for the other two codes. I sourced a knock sensor from NAPA $93 not too bad. and will be done in the next few days. As far as code #14 "the Speed sensor circuit open" sounds like a ground is loose or bad. Were should i be looking for this? Do i have to drop the cluster in order to see???

 

I would start with tracing the wires from the Speedo.
Last sensor at the rear of the trans with Green and Black wires.
If you can't find any cuts or opens then the sensor is probably no good.

 

Copy that Scoot, I need a few days to find time. So the knock sensor, when that code comes up, means i have to replace it? And the previous owner told me he put a new speedo sensor because he thought that was the problem. Apparently not. I have never dropped my cluster before and am having worried thought to do so. How difficult is it to get to the cluster? Is there a good "with pictures" write up you suggest to follow? Thank you for any input.

 

Yes if it throws a knock code then the sensor is bad. as for the gauge cluster it's not terribly bad but it's also not as easy as a 14 lol.
Remove the lower panel.
Remove the 4 bolts holding the column up.
Then proceed to remove the cluster trim and cluster.
Trim won't come out without dropping the column unless your gonna remove the steering wheel.

 

Yes, don't break a the cluster trim like i did on my parts car. I realized I needed to drop it after it was in 2 pieces. :-(

 

Theres plenty of room if you just remove the front 2 column bolts, and loosen the back 2 until there only in by a few threads.
That allows plenty of hang down room, and then you dont have to hold up the column yourself when putting back together.

 

sweet thanks for that tip, will do so when i get around to it. Im trying to get my alarm wired today.

 

So i finally got my new knock sensor in. Probably took me an hour and a half to get the damn thing bolted on. PITA!! I reset my ECU by using self diagnostics mode and turning the key off after. And pulled codes again, 34..... I thought i did it wrong so i did self diagnostic again, then started the car (im pretty sure that stores the code though) and it is still throwing 34, knock sensor code?? I did it both ways more than once.... I even went for a little drive thinking the ECU needed time to catch up, came back same thing. I pulled the battery thinking that would reset the ECU, still getting the same code... The original knock sensor was cracked all the way around so i thought it was going to fix the problem, putting a new one on. Can someone help me understand why my ECU is throwing "knock sensor code" with a brand new Knock Sensor on???

 

That knock sub harness maybe be bad?
Check for excessive resistance.
Gonna be honest though.
Nissans early knock systems were horrible.
I unplug all of mine.

 

Yea i was reading about people just unplugging there,s and being fine. But i have heard it eventually throws the knock code again, also read people putting resistors in the plug to act like (trick ECU) there is a plug but not. I just want to know why i cant clear my code????

 

That is pretty cool. I like the two tone you went with. I was looking at your photo album on photobucket. I hate that site it trips every security piece of software I have.

One of the dumbest moves I ever made was selling my 1993. I had a beaty of a Gray car that started life as an auto and I converted it manual using two different cars. Oh the memories.:crying:

 

Thank you man, no I need to get it running as good as she looks.

 

I Tried clearing codes again, its still throwing 34. I used my OHM meter on my knock sensor its 3.3 steady and does not change with WOT. Tried unplugging and driving to see if there is a difference, nope the same symptoms. Why cant i clear this code? This is really frustrating, my car is weak until 5,300 RPM's and i hardly get that high in the RPM range. I get that V-tech like pull around 5,300 RPM's. Before replacing the knock sensor i would get these symptoms at random times they would come and go, now it will not go out of limp mode at all. WTF? PLEASE HELP ME. I cant afford to waist time with this, i have two jobs and no days off. Every minute i can work on my car is valuable and don't feel like waisting time.

 

Dumb thought. Do you have a buddy with same year car? Maybe you could swap ECU's to see if the problem still there. This will help you say it's not the ECU, you can then lean more towards a bad sensor or bad wiring. This should in fact clear up a lot of mystery. Sometimes these ECU's seals break and a bit of rust collects inside and they start acting weird.

 

That's a decent idea, during pulling codes I would sometimes get code 45 ( short between TCU and ECU) now you got me wondering. The thing is I have a auto ECU with standard transmission. We're can I source a new ECU, all my friends are gay and don't like cars like me.

 

Know any shops in the area?? They might be able to help you out with a test ECU. I don't know you live


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Maybe your ECU is going bad?
Unplugging has always taken away that VTEC like power surge.

 

I'm in the heart of the Bay Area in California, I'm sure there is a shop somewhere. I have a Nissan dealership near me. Maybe they can test the ECU? I'm sure they will charge me though. Fuck this is frustrating, my car is hella clean, but runs like shit. Embarrassing!!

 

Sorry (Long)



Do me a favor. Stay calm. If you like your car and it's clean and your having a minor bump in the road don't loose perspective.

Second, who cares if it is embarrassing. I took a 2000 Pontiac to Hot Import Nights. It was boosted and damn fast. However, I was not an import. You have to be you. If you got a busted car then be proud of your broken car. I've got a broken car with a slight oil leak. Shit happens. When it does let it roll off your back. If not you'll be like me selling a 1993 with major potential and regretting it a month later.

Now doing a google search I came up with these results of bay area shops. The post is old but you could always make an account and see if there is any updates to this list.

Zilvia.net

Here is one from our forums

Bay area shops

I also found z car garage from a simple google search

Z car garage

True story. I'm currently working on a 96 Red 240Sx that was fairly neglected. Because of that lots of things are breaking. I do mean lots. Because of this fact I've spent almost 1,000.00 bucks alone on repairing basic functionality. Like not cutting the hell out of your arm while simply driving down the street. Securing the window guide back to the door where somebody failed to put the nut on. Replacing blow struts in the back. Cutting the old license plates off so the previous owner could turn them in and so on.

You can't really get much more embarrassing than driving a car being followed by like 3 cops in which the back end was bouncing the entire time. I know I stood out like a sore thumb. But you know what? I had fun driving my classic 240sx. I was excited I finally had the body style I wanted.

Now after selling a lot of parts, saving up money and taking my time I finally can say I am getting close to being able to finally drive the car without major issues. When I mean major issues I mean the following:

• Warped front brakes
• Damage CMC
• Damage slave cylinder
• Blow rear struts
• Sharp blow out door panel
• Driver side window switches worked when it wasn't convenient
• Head lights didn't turn on
• Turn signal switch broken
• Minor oil leak
• Broken mirrors
• Two CEL lights

Now after 1,000.00 bucks later I am almost ready to put her back together and take a less embarrassing ride. I might be able to take a mostly stock lowered 240sx to a local car event. What's depressing. The lowered aspect is the only mod. But at least now I can go short distances and keep an eye on my oil leak with my car. No drifting, no drag racing, AutoX, but at least I can now take her out with a bit of dignity.


The car does not define the person. It's the trials the car puts us through that defines the types of owners we are.:smile:

 

Your car Factory Manual?

 

I am getting the sense it's an Auto to Manual conversion.

 

If you read your VIN Plate on the firewall it'll tell you what trans it came with.

 

Yes its a factory standard transmission!!

96red240SX, wow that was a long response with nothing to do with this thread. And for some reason i still feel the need to tell you dont worry i have no plans on turning my back on my car. I have been through a lot with these cars. This being my second build, having my first one totaled, striping all my parts off, getting a second one in better condition with 100k less miles and starting over from were i left off. This car i have done absolutely the way i want from the two tone paint that I painted, down to the steering wheel cover i stitched myself. I spent the first few days stripping all interior parts down the the frame so i can wash the interior panels, and the whole floor pan with soap and water! I have over 100 hours working on this car alone. But thank you for the pep talk bud.

 

BUMP, i am really lost here. I am thinking it is the sub-harness that is destroyed. Apparently they get brittle and like to break. I was reading my FSM, and Nissan Maintenance Team would replace the sub harness every time they replaced the knock sensor. But i am reading 3.3 volts at the sub harness connection. Im a little confused because everything i read SR20 motor's knock sensor is supposed to be at 3.3 volts, and KA24DE which is what i have is supposed to be OHM'ed at 2.4 volts. Why am i reading 3.3? I am narrowing it down to either my sub-harness or my damn ECU. Any insight is much appreciated.

 

Since I will be down for another two weeks. If you lived closer I would let you borrow my KA24 ECU...LoL.

 

I am stressed out I put to much time and effort in this car for it to be running like a pig. I've advanced timing just so it's not so prevalent, but I want to fix the issue. I can buy a ECU for like $140 on eBay but I'm not sure that's the culprit. I'm at a loss

 

Can you do me a favor red and see what the sub harness to harness connection OHM's at? That might tell me something.

 

So today, out of desperation i decided i was going to build my own knock sensor sub-harness. A spur of the moment idea i came up with at 5 am when i woke up this morning. So after pulling my K/S and dissecting the OEM sub-harness i discovered what i believe to be a shorted wire. It is burnt looking on both ends, hence my diagnosis. I was set on pulling the connector pins cleaning them and using fresh wire to make a new harness. As i start pulling the wire apart and trying to get to the pins, i start to chip away pretty bad at the connector. I said F-it and ordered a new sub-harness. $50 will be here later today and installed if all goes as planned. I will let you all know what this does, if it confirms you should change your sub-harness every time you change your knock sensor. I wish somebody told me this the first time around.

What i believe happen. This all started back when i got the car. It ran fine most of the time, but at random times I would experience sudden lose of power, usually when it was cold at first, then it started happening all over at any random moment, eventually getting worse over time. I then stopped being lazy and pulled codes, long story short i have a persistent code 34. ie knock sensor. I replaced my cracked Knock sensor thinking all was good. I started experiencing worse conditions than before. Day's of me wondering what it was and guessing and being dissapointed and after many hours of reading i discover the sub-harness get's really brittle and likes to cause a false knock code. So i will be putting my new one on hopefully without problem and i will report back. I am excited about this because i really think that is the culprit. I will be a happy man once i have all my engine back and get out of limp mode.

 

I have my fingers crossed for you that fixes your issue. Sorry, things over here have been very busy for me. My spacers turned out to be not thick enough and I discovered some rusted studs in my hubs so I had them all pulled and waiting on my new spacers. Then today I decided to flush my trans fluid for S&G's and I found this....



I am not very happy. I am not ready yet to do my swap.

Subbed to your thread.

 

After installation, which literally took me 20 minutes in the dark now that i know what i am doing. I reset my ECU first thing. Started the car and it idles very rough for a few seconds, and eventually smoothed out. im back at a good idle, but i am still throwing code 34. F&$K.... I am thinking, i have a pretty bad wooshing sound, or grinding sound in my trans whenever the clutch is fully out is the only time i can hear it. When the clutch is all the way depressed the sound goes away. I am thinking this sound or whatever is causing it might be setting off my knock sensor. IDK. im lost.

 

The rattle in the clutch is usually the throw out bearing but you should investigate that the clutch didn't fail or failing in another way. I don't know if that would cause the knock though


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OK so i got some insight from my mechanic friend. MY TPS is fucked, looks like someone cut the connector off at the harness and did some shoty work getting it back wired. I will be cleaning that up, ASAP. I noticed because every time i touched the TPS connector my idle would jump and go cra cra. I also want to replace my IACV because its old. The sound i am hearing is the front main bearing in my transmission. That is not contributing to the knock code but my friend said my TPS might be. I will be replacing my TPS and my IACV and then i need to fix my transmission and probably replace the clutch. FFUUUUU MO MONEY!!!! Hopefully all this will make her run more consistently like she is supposed to.

 

I feel you on the money. Because of a lapse in judgement I purchased the wrong spacer and it didn't fit. I installed it (sorta) so I can't return it. It actually cost me 200.00 bucks in total on this mistake (sigh). Finding that ball bearing in my trans is a bit depressing.

Keep us updated on your progress. I have my fingers crossed for you.

 

I have to apologize I haven't been on here in a while but hopefully my experience can help you with your problem if you haven't already solved it. Years back when I bought my first 240 I had the same knock sensor issue. First I replaced the sensor with no luck, then the sub harness with no luck, finally I traced the wires back to the wire loom beside the fuel rail where I found a break in the knock sensor wire. The damage was not apparent from the outside loom ,I actually had to open it up and search the wire. I then spliced in a small section of wire from this point back up to the new sub harness I bought. Important to note was that it only ended up being one wire even though from the design of the sensor and the subharness you would assume its 2 wires. The one wire actually has another wire wrapped around it to help get rid of interference.