I'm not an expert on brakes but this could very well be your problem!
follow this link and skip down the third paragraph in the section titled "the all important transfer layer"
Bed-in theory

 

i have the same problem but its the caliper that is stuck. when you press the brake pedal the brake piston engages but doesnt disengage when u depress the brake pedal which causes the brakes to constantly have pressure

 

I second the sticking caliper. If they are oem they heve some years on them. See it all the time at work.

 

Took everything apart today again and pushed the piston back in and found that caliper wasnt sliding freely from the pins. I tried to regrease them and it was still hard to move so I went ahead and bought new pins and bolts and they were moving freely afterwards. Test drove it and it was still sticking and everything was very hot. Someone told me the hose could be collapesed inside ill check it out tomorrow.

When I put the old pads on the calipers don't "stick" rims are cool to touch but when the new pads are on they burn up and everything is very hot. Would the extra thickness cause the calipers to stick? I'm leaning more towards the e-brake is too tight but I've changed the pads 2-3 times before and never had to adjust them. Not sure how to adjust them?

 

Good deal, I forgot to mention that but Im glad you figured out your problem.

 

Changed the pins and its still burning up. I think the new pads are more thick than the others I've always used when I change them maybe the e-brake is affected by this but never messed with the e-brake before. Anyone know how? I seen in the FSM to mess with a screw in the e-brake handle.

Does anyone think that could be the problem? I won't be able to mess with it until the weekend.

 

It could be but Ive never messed with it before. Are sure the caliber is going all the way back in. There is a slight possibility that the lines could be stopping up and make sure they are not twisted too.

 

I have seen brake hoses collapse inside causing sort of a one way check valve for the fluid. It will let the fluid travel too the caliper but not back, causing the caliper to stick.

 

none of the higher-ups on the forums are helping... i actually am curious about this too (not happening to me) but still wonder, because i've changed my pads 100 times.

is there enough (not too much, not too little) break fluid?
did you clamp the caliper down when you were re-sizing them to fit the new bads or did you bleed them?
how "hot" is it getting? most rims naturally get around 100 - 125 degrees in 70-90 degree weather.
break rotors get upward of 150 - 200+ degrees operating...

something is rubbing, your break line? maybe its under your hood... brake fluid should handle heat.

 

I bleed the brakes today only saw few tiny bubbles on the first caliper but did them RR, LR, FR, FL in that order. The rims are getting VERY hot. After driving for 30 minutes and letting the car sit for 10 minutes I could spit on the rotor and it instantly vaporizes where as the front rotors do not.

I will test drive the car tomorrow and see if that fixes anything after bleeding the brakes.

On both rears if you look through the rims I noticed the pads are not even making contact with the rotor because the half closer to the center still has the pattern when I first bought the rotors. Took the pad off to verify and only half the pad were worn down. The inside pad has nice even wear.

So far I've changed pads/rotors/guide pins/bleed the brakes. Only thing left is the hardware that holds the pads in or I've got 2 shot rear calipers? I know the car is getting old but everything was fine before I changed the pads I don't want to install new calipers just yet.

 

you kept the metal plates on them right? my friend peeled them off and messed up his rottors like that.
did you ever take your car in to balance the breaks?

 

I'm not sure what metal plates you speak of but if its the shims on the outside of the pads I kept them on. Also, I never brought the car anywhere to have the brakes balanced. I like to try and do things myself because I don't trust others. What's involved in balancing the brakes?

 

that there is your downfall. you can do most things yourself. but balancing requires a machine that accurately measures the surface of the rottor and shims off any uneven surfaces to near perfection; which a human being couldn't do in his garage (unless he had one). if you don't trust the shops, just watch them while they do it.

kind of like, you could upgrade your head gasket and bore your engine yourself... if you had the machines to resurface your head and bore your engine block with.

 

Well the rotors were brand new so I don't think the rotors needed to be grind. My brothers father in-law runs a machine shop I could have him grind the rotors.

 

i'm surprised it took this long to figure it out... maybe post a video or some pics of whats going on? your cable could merely be rubbing on something while driving. who knows at this point.

 

i have the same problem on my 95.. but its only on the passenger side.. I just replaced the calipers today. Still just one rotor on passenger side is hot as a mofo, i adjusted the e brake cable too from inside and under the car... I guess it could be my rotor.

 

Actually, I never figured it out. The new pads from what I could remember had a built in shim so the pad was "thicker" (Advanced Auto Parts Wagner Thermo Quiet). I ended up getting another brand of pads and everything was fine again.

 

I had a sticking rear caliper once. 300ZX brake swap fixed that

 

I'm in for figuring this out pretty sure I got the same problem on my 95 I got half life left on the pads o. One side and no life left on the other

 

Clean and Grease the pins good.
Most times ppl just wipe off the old grease and put new ones and expect it to be ok.
You have to clean off ALL the caked grease and dirt including inside the bracket pin hole with brake clean and then put good fresh grease.

Other then that just make sure you turn the caliper piston all the way back in.
Our rear calipers twits in not push.
It'll break if you try to push it back in with a clamp or something.

 

want to know actual answer to this if you have replaced pads rotors and calipers.
since everything is brand new you will need to readjust your parking brake cable.
if you dont then your gonna keep burning thru ur brakes.
how do you do this its simple

take a 10mm socket and extension and shove it in the hold on the ebrake handle and go the direction to loosen. and loosen until u get 6-7 clicks when pulling up on the handle.

 

That is if the cable has been stupidily tightened prior to make up for lack of decent brakes.
Which is pretty often lol.

 

that will tend to be the case if vehicle has 100+k on it and a shop like midas been doin the work

 

Mostly for the fact of beginner drifters. Pulling it like its a train brake because the failed to replace the probably 4+yo and glazed stock brakes.