From under the car........I wouldnt do it just because I would get so ennoyed, lol. Um you wont need any special kind of tool except for a torque wrench to get the proper torque down to the rods. I hope you mean rod bearings and not main bearings. The main bearings are between the crank and block in which case the crank needs to be removed. Good luck

Robbie

 

Agreed on the main bearings. I didn't do those on the 240 I had. The noise went almost completely away with just the rod bearings being replaced. Especially that annoying rattle at 2500 RPMs. Main bearings in that KA24E motor have this gearth that holds all the rod caps together. Strong but strange to see. All bearing caps would have to be removed at one time and then you may as well have removed the tranny and changed the rear main seal and had the crank checked professionally to see if it is round and needs polishing. Also at that point you have all the pistons pushed up to clear the crank and may not be able to get them back down.

 

I called Baxters and they had them for 39.95 a set, but wanted to know what if i wanted the standard size? ??

 

I called Baxters and they had them for 39.95 a set, but wanted to know what if i wanted the standard size? ??

You won't know if the car is standard size until you remove one rod cap. Remove the bearing from the rod cap and look on the mating surface to the rod cap away from the crank. If standard you will see "std" on one end. If not you will see ".010" or something like that. If standard the engine has never been apart and that is probably the case. I just wanted to make you aware of what to look for. A think Parts America had them for $19.88 for the set. They are on the web and ship to your door if you don't have a local parts America/Advanced Auto or whatever they call themselves in your area. Sealed Power bearings are the ones I used.

 

I will call around tomorrow to see if there are any cheaper prices, but I want to do the bearings on saturday so I don't want to wait for shipping. It sounds like a pretty straight foreward job so I hope it goes smoothly! All I have to do is (1)drain oil, (2)lift car, (4)losen motor mounts, (5)jack up tranny slightly, (6)remove oil pan, (7)remove bearing cap nuts/bolts, (8)remove bearing(2 pieces), (9)install lubed bearing, (10)torque cap nuts/bolts to 30ft/lb, repeat steps 7-10 for all four cylinders,(11)Install oil pan, (12) lower tranny, (13) torque engine mounts, (14)lower car, (15)add new oil and filter. Done. Sounds like everything?

 

It all sounds so easy doesnt it? I always thought so to...lol. Just make sure you have a torque wrench so you can get everything down to spec when your puttin everything back together.

Robbie

 

I will call around tomorrow to see if there are any cheaper prices, but I want to do the bearings on saturday so I don't want to wait for shipping. It sounds like a pretty straight foreward job so I hope it goes smoothly! All I have to do is (1)drain oil, (2)lift car, (4)losen motor mounts, (5)jack up tranny slightly, (6)remove oil pan, (7)remove bearing cap nuts/bolts, (8)remove bearing(2 pieces), (9)install lubed bearing, (10)torque cap nuts/bolts to 30ft/lb, repeat steps 7-10 for all four cylinders,(11)Install oil pan, (12) lower tranny, (13) torque engine mounts, (14)lower car, (15)add new oil and filter. Done. Sounds like everything?

The only thing I would add is the bolts feel a lot tighter than 30 ft/lbs when taking them off. Try very hard to not damage the heads of the nuts by rounding them off.
Also oil only the side of the bearing that faces the crank. Pay close attention to which way the rod cap comes off. If reinstalled the incorrect way the bearing can stack easier and ruin the crank and rods bearings.

 

I will call around tomorrow to see if there are any cheaper prices, but I want to do the bearings on saturday so I don't want to wait for shipping. It sounds like a pretty straight foreward job so I hope it goes smoothly! All I have to do is <b>(1)drain oil, (2)lift car, (4)losen motor mounts, </b>(5)jack up tranny slightly, (6)remove oil pan, (7)remove bearing cap nuts/bolts, (8)remove bearing(2 pieces), (9)install lubed bearing, (10)torque cap nuts/bolts to 30ft/lb, repeat steps 7-10 for all four cylinders,(11)Install oil pan, (12) lower tranny, (13) torque engine mounts, (14)lower car, (15)add new oil and filter. Done. Sounds like everything?

Well you seem to know what to do with your engine, on the other hand you should learn to count better (1,2,4). I learned to count before I worked on engines... Priorities I guess, LOL

 

Sorry, step 3 would be, do not drop the car on your head! Thank you for your information on counting it was obviously needed and verry important! Thank you guys for all of your information and I hope that this all goes smoothly and my car quiets the fu*k up!

Thanks!

 

Well, on sunday I decided im going to do this, so drained the oil(no metal flakes of any sort), pulled the oil filter(no metal flakes or shavings) so I raised the car while the oil drained got under the motor and looked how to remove motor mounts, man its a fu*king pain in the a*s. and not to mention getting the oil pan out that would be a huge hassle also without pulling the motor. There are these brackets that hold the tranny to the motor that cover 2 almost 4 of the bolts on the oil pan. If you did this under the car ; good job! I couldn't even loosen the motor mount bolts, so if i do have a bearing problem wouldn't there be metal flakes in my oil??? thanks

No shit!

 

OK I forgot about those damn braces. The last KA24E I did was in my truck and those are ommitted in the truck for some reason. I just pulled those off also. The two nuts that hold the motor on the frame are tight but not that bad. I removed them and if I remember right lifted the motor and then removed the braces from the motor to the transmission. Then you can get to all of the oil pan bolts. The back two are a pain because of the clutch dust cover and work best with 1/4 inch drive socket for back there.
Yes my car had metal shavings in the oil but were very fine. Did you drag a magnet through the oil to see what hangs on the magnet? That will tell you the amount of crap in the system and wear on the bearings.
Sorry you didn't get more done. I know it sucks when you are all prepared to do something and you can't get it done.

 

im rebuilding a ka out of the car as we speak and after taking out the crank and seeing the clearance there is to work with, with the crank in place......mad props to whomever changed the rod bearing with the motor in the car....damn!

 

Guys, I really thought this was easier than changing the timing chain on the KA the way that Nissan recommends changing the timing chain, you know removing the oil pan. Anyway I think it took less than three hours and no coolant loss, just oil change. I mean hell, you don't even have to remove the oil pump and reset the damn timing. I thought it was pretty easy but maybe I have been into too many motors.