[boxfresh]

How did the HP+ pads compare to the Carbotechs?

Great build btw, love how track-orientated it is!

 

[Scoot]

IDK if you can swap the Hardcopy internal. Me n *ka24e* were discussing this n the Hardbody trans was quite a bit shorter n I would assume the gears would be smaller to fit the smaller case. A guy on here used a Hardbody trans but had to extend the D/S a fair bit.

N yes moving that limited should help a lot providing your still making decent power up there.

Also to my understanding the Euro CA trans has dual 2nd gear synchros.

 

[Sleepy_Steve]

How did the HP+ pads compare to the Carbotechs?

Great build btw, love how track-orientated it is!

Thanks, its nice having a daily I don't mess with. Really lets me do whatever I want with this car. I'll give you a quick break down of the pads I've run on track on this car and my old 240. The cliff-notes here is basically that they don't compare. The HP+ is good for spirited drives, the carbotech (or something with a similar operating range) is what you want for track work. I'm sure if our cars all had Z32 brakes or 2 piece 12.2'' rotors w/ willwood 4 pot calipers; it would be a different story, but the fact is that our stock brakes are so undersized, that you HAVE to go with a really aggressive pad for track work.

HPS = fucking sucks, don't run them, I had pad fade half a lap after the warm up lap, and then got to experience fluid fade a couple laps later. They will NEVER end up on ANY car I track, EVER.

HP+ w/ ducting = Not too bad, but clearly not aggressive enough for our tiny ass stock brakes. Once I was backing off on the straights at like 80-100 instead of staying in it till 115-120, I was able to keep the pads from going away entirely, but they were still outside of their optimal range. Based on the link below that a Hawk rep gave me a paper copy of in an HPDE classroom session, my pad / rotor temps were between 650 F and 850 F range for most of the sessions. And again, that was outside their optimal range AFTER I had backed off on my speed to preserve brakes more. Its also important to remember, that running these pads that hot was very bad for pad life (at least with slotted rotors). They lasted TWO events / weekends. One at VIR full, and one at Summit Point where it pulled double duty because my friend's car broke down.

http://www.andrew-racing.com/compound comparison chart.pdf

Carbotechs = I think I ran X10's last time? I know it wasn't 8's, and I don't think I was running 12's. On the street those pads were a bit of a pain, very loud, and because they don't work till 200-300 F, they don't react well at all to things like panic stops when daily driving.
That said, when you warm up those Carbotechs, they're far and away the best pad I've ever run. Because they had a thermal range of something like 300-1700 degrees, you can pretty much guarantee that they won't fade. They also had great ramp up of brake force when you initially apply the brakes, as well as great modulation when you're full on the brakes which is very helpful with things like threshold braking in non-ABS cars.

Carbotech compound description: Carbotech Performance Brakes

Also to my understanding the Euro CA trans has dual 2nd gear synchros.

What does this mean? Slash what effect does it have on shifting?

 

[Scoot]

Should help smooth it out and reduce chances of Grinding, mostly seen during "Drag" type situations.

 

[Sleepy_Steve]

Really should have procrastinated on doing my daily's brakes today and just messed with this car a bunch.

http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/acura-honda/141077-venting-about-brembos.html#post1627428

 

[unreal-]

Should help smooth it out and reduce chances of Grinding, mostly seen during "Drag" type situations.

ugh my poor trans does that whenever i try "honda-style" fast shifts. Does a slight grind into gear.

 

[Scoot]

Its common. Are trans are old. Synchros aren't the best. I tried to get a quite for Custom Carbon Lined Synchros and was quote $20k minimum buy in and pretty much told them to Fuck off. Not to mention many things come into play such as Trans Fluid, Slave Cylinder Size, if you have a Short Shifted, and a few other things.

 

[BoostinIX]

Mine's just noisy on coasting. /shrug.

 

[Scoot]

Your Synchros are noisy while coasting.... :fonix:

 

[BoostinIX]

Meh. It was a junkyard tranny, shifts fine. I can live with noise. Won't be much longer anyway

 

[bmoses]

Mine grinds on fast hard shifts as well. I feel it's only a matter of time. Any good aftermarket trans rebuild kits out there for us? Or just OEM replacement parts?

 

[Sleepy_Steve]

Acura is down with stripped threads on its brake calipers...

Took the 240 out for some errands before work. Sat on the side of the road for a couple hours when the fuel pump took a dump on me. Swapping back to the stock one now. It worked 3 years ago when it came out? Fingers crossed lol, I have a BBQ meet to take it to on Saturday.

Odd that both my cars go down like this. But I guess there were having a pretty good run.




Fuel pump trouble shooting technique of awesomeness:

1) Check aeromotive FPR's built in fuel pressure gauge in the engine bay. -- Reads 0psi
2) Fill tank with more gas, still 0psi fuel pressure, but now it tries to sputter to life, but can't due to lack of fuel pressure.
3) Listen for pump priming. Nothing.
4) Check all fuses on the car. Remove the wires going to the wide band that were sandwiched in with another fuse, and replace another fuse that had blown with a new fuse 50% bigger.
5) Stare at relays.
6) Remember you don't have any spare relays, and that you don't know how to check relays the correct way.
7) Pop fuel tank access panel in the trunk. Look at plugs. Assume 3 wire is for fuel gauge sending unit (+, -, signal)... and that I want to tap my multimeter into the 2 wire plug.
8) Arrange multi-meeter so that I can see it from the drovers seat if looking backwards
9) Turn key to on
10) look at multi-meeter
11) Reads 12v for ~5 seconds. Then goes to zero.
12) That's the relay trying to prime the pump, and behavior not seen on the gauge. Good job self, you've figured out its the fuel pump that is preventing the car from running.

 

[Scoot]

Mine grinds on fast hard shifts as well. I feel it's only a matter of time. Any good aftermarket trans rebuild kits out there for us? Or just OEM replacement parts?

I was personally going to try one of these kits. They claim Koyo Bearings which is a OEM supplier so I can only assume decent or = to OEM.

 

[bmoses]

Nice work Steve

Interesting find Scott

 

[BoostinIX]

Alright Scoot, come install that in mine

 

[Scoot]

I am actually thinking about purchasing this kit and a used Trans to rebuild because my clutch has just about had it so I think now would be a good time to rebuild one. Specially since I've done the INFAMOUS 2nd to 5th shift a few times and let's just say neither 2nd or 5th synchros like me.....

 

[Sleepy_Steve]

lol, I look at this thread... and I thought; who the fuck is scoot? I mean Scott would make sense, but not Scoot.

Then I saw it was just kid who's renamed himself after his preferred mode of transport. LOL Scooters.

 

[Sleepy_Steve]

Swapped out the fuel pump before work today. BIG BIG thanks for Boostin's landlord who came by to help out. Never would have gotten the pump mounted right on its little plastic clip without him.

Hopefully this also fixes most of my stupid fuel starvation problems as well. On the bright side, swapping back to the stock pump was on my to-do list. Down side is that it WILL have to come out again to get some heat shrink on it / re-do the soldering job for better / safer connections.

 

[Scoot]

Lol check the thread about trying to PM me in the OT. That explains why.

 

[bmoses]

lol, I look at this thread... and I thought; who the fuck is scoot? I mean Scott would make sense, but not Scoot.

Behold the power of the admin...