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The KA24DE Upgrade Guide

139K views 67 replies 25 participants last post by  lewer3  
#1 · (Edited)
Alright well I had a bunch of threads I started but Alot of them could have been consolidated together to reduce forum memory usage. Also because there were so many, not all the ones I wanted could get sticky. So I figured if I make a thread that was more general so that I could fit more info into one sticky thread and possibly reduce the amount of threads asking for suggestions and a good place to buy and what not.
Let's start listing mods w/ the cycle of the engine, starting with the intake and ending with the exhaust.
Need I advise you these are bolt on mods, absolutely nothing internal.


Intake:
eBay Intake Pipping and MAF Adpt. (This is one of those very rare times I myself would use something made from eBay, but I have first hand exp. with them and they are pretty decent for there cost, there pretty identical to any other name brand intake besides the colors, filters, and no C.A.R.B sticker.)
**NOTE: Make sure you get the Pipping/Intake kit Specified for your Chassis, as I am not sure the Bends or Vacuum nipples are the same.

eBay Intake Pipping and MAF Adpt.: $15 to $25
Can be found Here

After seeing This Intake Filter Shootout, I've decided to Couple an Apexi Univ. Power Filter to the eBay intake. ALL MAF Adpt. are 3" or 76mm.

Apex'I 75mm Power Filter: $72
Can be found Here

Now also in that Filter Shootout, the K & N Filter came in 2nd, so I figured, why not put that in as an opt. also.

K&N 3" Cone filter: $38
Can be found Here

Although it was not in the Filter shoot out, I have used/seen these filters and seen go results on different apps.

Fujita 3" Filter (Similar Design to Apex'I): $44
Can be found Here

For those of you not diggin the eBay kits, well I got you covered :thumbsup

AEM: $160
S13 (DE) - S14

Injen: $187 - $191
S13 (E) - S13 (DE) - S14 (Z) - S14 (K)

Intake Thermal gasket: Tests have shown ~ 3-4hp increase after long term engine running.
Circuit Sports: $30
DE Only

Intake Manifold 101:

After market Intake Mani's and some good info

Omega Motive:
Price: $489
Designed with Mid-High Power In-Mind
Velocity Stacks

JGY Customs:
Price: $550
Designed with the KA-T In-Mind

Xcessive:
Price: $465
Single TB: Pre-Machined to Fit 70mm, But still use of Stock 60mm
Designed with the KA-T In-Mind
Also Good for Mid-High N/A Power

Xcessive:
Price: $785
GSX-R 750/1000 ITB's, Comes w/ plenum so you can still run MAF
Designed for Max response
Good for Mid-High Power

O and J Performance:
Price: $950
Sheet Metal
T6061 Aluminum

Now in when I was looking around from stuff on how to determine Intake Manifold sizing and what not. I came across some very interesting information that I thought I'd share.
IM = Intake Manifold

Determining IM Runner Length:
The general rule is that you should begin with a runner length of 178mm for a 10,000 rpm peak torque location, from the intake opening to the plenum chamber. You add 43mm to the runner length for every 1000 rpm that you want the peak torque to occur before the 10,000 rpm.

So, for instance, if peak torque should occur at 4,500 rpm the total runner length should be 178mm + (5.5 x 43mm) = 415mm.

Our Intake Runners are aprrox. ~430mm

Determining IM Runner Diameter:
You can calculate the ideal runner diameter by the equation:

SQRT [ (target rpm for peak torque x Displacement x VE) / (V x 18.5) ]

SQRT = square root

VE = Volumetric Efficiency in %

V is the velocity of the air flow in the IM plenum for resonance (usually estimated at 180 ft/sec max.)

Displacement in Liters (2.4)

ex.

So if we want peak torque at 4500 rpm at 65% VE for an KA, VE = 0.65

SQRT [(4500x 2.4L x 0.65 )/ (180 x 18.5)] = [(4500 x 2.4 x 0.65)/(3330)]

= 1.45 in. or 36.9 mm is the ideal runner diameter. (1 in = 25.4 mm)


Stock Intake Runner Dia. = 44.4 mm or 1.74 in (Ideal for 6500rpm)

Determining IM Plenum Size:
The plenum volume is critical on N/A engines, and a basic rule of thumb is: The smaller the plenum, the lower the rpm range, and bigger means higher rpm.

Determining TB Size
:
The best way to find out if your TB is too small for your IM plenum is to determine what the intake manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor is reading (in the plenum) when you are at full throttle ( or wide open throttle (WOT) ) while the car is accelerating using a datalogger. The MAP should be equal to, or close to, atmospheric pressure. If it isn't or there is a MAP drop at WOT, then your TB is still too small.


Determining Intake Diameter Size:
The ideal diameter for an intake is when the intake has 25% more cross-sectional area than the TB's bore cross-sectional area . Your TB diameter (overbored or not) dictates your intake diameter.

ex. 60/25.4 = 2.4/100 = 0.024 x 25 = 0.6
add the 25% (0.6) to the original diameter(2.4)
2.4 + 0.6 = 3" or 76mm

This is what I came up with:
60mm Bore TB
76mm Ideal Intake Diameter

62mm Bore TB
76mm Ideal Intake Diameter

65mm Bore TB
82mm Ideal Intake Diameter

Determining Intake Length
:
A suggested starting point for the length of a tube with peak torque at 6000 rpm is 13 in.

You add 1.7 in. for every 1000 rpm that you want to move the peak torque below 6000.

Or subtract 1.7 in. for every 1000 rpm you want to move the peak torque above 6000.

ex.
Peak Trq. we want 4500
6000 - 4500 = 1500
we want 1500 so 1.7 x 1.5 = 2.6
13 + 2.6 = 15.6 in is our Ideal Intake Legnth

Header:
Now I am pretty sure that all DOHC Headers are the same, Though I know that OBD-2 has a 2nd o2 sensor right before the the cat on the header. But if anything you can always cap the hole w/ something.

OBX: ~$165
Can be found at Sparktec Motorsports
eBay store link c an be found Here
or there real site:
S13 (DE) - S14

JDM Car Boy: $200 They seem to be reputable in the honda scene so why not give it a try?
S14 Only

S&S Header of AZ: $284
S14 Only

DC Sports: $341 - $333
S13 - S14

Pacesetter: $164 - $170
SOHC (
70-1286) - DOHC (70-1288)

Spyder Auto: $189
89-90 - 91-94 - 95-98

BBP Racing Headers (Out of Business but still being sold)
89-90 - 91-94 - 95-98

Test Pipes:
**NOTE: Most Test pipes have the EGT sensor Bung for the SR's, but the pipe should also come with a bolt to cap it off, if not you will need to get something to seal the hole.

eBay: $5 - $50
Can be found Here

Advan-Emotion: $25
Can be found Here

Advanced JDM Parts: $25
Can be found Here

Hi-Flow Cats:
Cat-Co 3": $145
Can be found Here

Magnaflow (Size not Stated): $97
Can be found Here

Random Technology 3": $198
Can be found Here

CarSound (Size not Stated): $115
Can be found Here

Exhaust:

Limited to under $450 due to large selection


5Zigen Rocket 200: $415
S13 Only


Advanced JDM Parts: $138 - $173
S13: 1 2 3
S14: 1 2

Apexi GT Spec: $406
S14 Only

Apexi Nior: $447
S14 Only

Apex'I N1 Evolution: $435 - $450
S13 - S14

Apex'I Megaphone: $400 - $419
S13 - S14

Blitz NUR-Spec: (Rear Section/Muffler - **NOT CAT-BACK**) $374
S14 Only


Buddy Club Spec II: $332
S13 - S14

CXRacing: $200
S13 Only


Espelir JGT500: $440
S14 Only

GP Sports EXAS Spec D: $350
S13 - S14

GP Sports G-Four D II: $440
S13 - S14

Greddy PE II: $448
S13 Only

Greddy Ti-C: $448
S14 Only: Link 1 & 2

HKS Hi-Power: $371 - $449
S13 & S14 Both 65mm and 85mm


Hop-Up Racing 3": $265 - 279
S13 - S14

Intense Power: $295
S13 - S14


JIC Bullet 505S SUS (60mm): $450
S13 - S14


JVT-R: $399
S13 Only

Pacesetter Monza: $280
S13 Only

Pit N1 Style: $370
S13 - S14


Skunk2: $430
S13 Link 1 & 2 - S14 Link: 1 & 2

Tanabe Concept G: $450
S14 Only

Tanabe Super Medallion Racing: $418 - $443
S13 - S14

Top Speed N1: $320
S13 - S14



Updated: 5/19

*NOTE: All links that lead to GripMotorsports are not broken, the page url uses "~" which do not show up when you click on the link, just go and search for the product, it's there. :)
 
#2 · (Edited)
Some Basic info on the DE Head:

Image


Head Volume = 46cc's

Stock Flow Numbers @ 28" said:
Valve Lift / CFM

Intake:
.100" = 99.3
.200" = 171.1
.300" = 223.4
.400" = 241.8
.500" = 243.6
Exhaust:
.100" = 75.8
.200" = 144.5
.300" = 173.9
.400" = 182.9
.500" = 183.6
Valve Info said:
Intake -
Valve Diameter: 36.6mm
Valve Stem Diameter: 6.97mm
Valve Length: 101.32mm

Exhaust -
Valve Diameter: 31.3mm
Valve Stem Diameter: 6.94mm
Valve Length: 99mm
Cervasa said:
1mm Oversized Valves I & E
PnP
Valve Lift / CFM

Intake:
.100" = 122
.200" = 228
.300" = 316
.400" = 332
.500" = 379
Exhaust:
.100" = 106
.200" = 193
.300" = 253
.400" = 278
.500" = 281
96nismo240sx - KA-T.org said:
PnP
Valve Lift / CFM

Intake:
.050" = 88
.100" = 131
.150" = 170
.200" = 207
.250" = 236
.300" = 257
.350" = 275
.400" = 281
.450" = 285
Exhaust:
.050" = 51
.100" = 85
.150" = 119
.200" = 150
.250" = 178
.300" = 200
.350" = 203
.400" = 208
.450" = 203
 
#3 · (Edited)
Alt. Upgrade:
Most of us have either added a bunch of Electrical accessories, such as gauges, full stereo systems and what not. But chances are, you didnt upgrade your stock alt. to support this extra electrical drain. But luckily, there is a cheap and easy solution to this. It involves the 1gen Nissan Quest(93-98). These Vans were equipped with an VG30E and an 110 amp alt. that w/ only minor mods, can be fitted to an KA. This mod fits both KA24E and KA24DE.
Link to the installation

1G Nissan Quest Alt.: $Depends on where you get them from, usually costing $25 less then an KA alt.


Grounding Upgrade
:
I did not believe in this mod at first, I actually thought it was one of those rip off mods that look pretty. Boy was I wrong lol. Looking at these dyno comparisons I have found including the: Hyper Ground System Link 1, Hyper Ground System Link 2, and Tuner Transformation Ground Kit. Both kits showed gains across the entire power band. Other benefits include; Stabilized idling, Increase in MPG, Throttle Response, and Low-Mid Range Trq. This is pretty amazing considering that these kits and be replicated/DIY for under $50.
You can make your own grounding cables with an DIY from here.

Grounding System: Depends on if you do your own > $60, or buy a kit which is normally $80 +


MSD Ignition Coil: (Only On OBD1 KA24DE's, Possibly E)
I'm pretty sure we all know what this does, Improves spark out put. In return = better MPG, Cleaner emissions and more complete combustion.
DIY Install Guide

MSD Blaster Coils: From $38+


Spark Plug Wires:
Upgrading to low Resistance spark plug wires will deliver more electrical current to the plugs. Thus resulting in a hotter spark, which in return normally means a cleaner more complete combustion.

Magnecor 8.5mm Wires: $95

Taylor 8.2mm Wires: $65


Upgrading Spark Plugs:
Well, do I really need to explain?

Plugs can range from: $30+
 
#68 ·
Alt. Upgrade:
Most of us have either added a bunch of Electrical accessories, such as gauges, full stereo systems and what not. But chances are, you didnt upgrade your stock alt. to support this extra electrical drain. But luckily, there is a cheap and easy solution to this. It involves the 1gen Nissan Quest(93-98). These Vans were equipped with an VG30E and an 110 amp alt. that w/ only minor mods, can be fitted to an KA. This mod fits both KA24E and KA24DE.
Link to the installation

1G Nissan Quest Alt.: $Depends on where you get them from, usually costing $25 less then an KA alt.

broken link
Link to the installation

should be linking to nicoclub. i only noticed it because i'm about to do this mod.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Basic but good N/A Info:
So I Decided To Bring This Back From The FA-Q Section Cause I still See Some recent N/A Threads in here, so.......
If we Could Keep This One Stickied In Here, I think it might work better. :D

Power Mods:
Header(The Intake and Exhaust Mani Seem To Be The Problem Area's Of The KA So I would Assume a Decent Gain from This)

Test Pipe or Hi-Flow Cat(Random Tech is said to Flow the Best)

Exhaust(More Flow = More Power.)

Custom CARI(Cold Air Ram Intake - The One that goes where the Battery is suppose to be, Increase Flow & Response - Or Any Intake Will Do)

KAE Engine Pistons in DE Block: 89 = 9.1 C/R 90 = 8.6 C/R (KAE Pistons Will Give High C/R Then what rated for The KAE Engine, i.e. 9.1 C/R KAE Pistons on the DE will give you a Final 11.6 C/R - Also Increasing Bore = More Displacement, Doing some Research It seems that The Valve Reliefs Do Not Align so Using Aftermarket Cams w/ SOHC Pistons should not be done**DO NOT EXCEED 248/248 OEM Cam Set-Up)

Lightweight Pulleys(Larger Diameter Can Also Reduce Resistance)

Port & Polish Head(Remove As little material As possible but smooth Rough Surfaces - Increases Velocity)

Decking/Shaving Head(Yield Higher C/R)

Advance Timing(I would Advance No More then 5*, 3* To Be Safe)

Some Sort Of Intake Manifold(ITB's Is About The Best N/A intake There is, If Not Porting and Matching The Intake Can Yield Good Gains Also)

Throttle Body Spacer(Seems To Work For Other Cars So Why Not Try it)

Throttle Body Boring(Increases Response and Flow)

Upgrading Fuel system(Really Not Needed But I'm sure after all these Years Your Systems Getting Old So Do it a Favor, and Upgrade Maybe)

Upgrading Your Ignition(More/Stronger/Better spark = Better Burning Fuel, so........)

Cams(I would Only Go Up To 264's, I Like Having Smooth Idle, Yield 12HP?)

Valve Springs & Retaiers(stiffer Springs Allow for More RPM and Resist Coil Bind, Interchangeable with CA, VG, and RB20)

Valves(Over Sized Valves Allow for More Air Flow, But Going Too Big will Reduce The Flow Velocity, SO Bigger Isn't Always Better, Great For Turbo Thought, i Would Stay in The .5mm Oversized For N/A)

Fine Tuning(To Top off Your whole Set-Up you should look Into and ECU to Fine Tune Your Set-Up, Leaning Your A/F Ratio To That of 12.5-13 is Suppose To Be Optimal for N/A )


Mods To Make The KA Feel Good - Not So Much Power:
Clutch(I Prefer One That grips at least 50HP More Then What I'm Making)

Lightweight Flywheel(Reduce Rotational Mass and Resistance To Rev Up - Revs Faster, Not higher)

Lightweight Driveshaft(Aluminum, Carbon Can Be used But it's Very Expensive)

LSD(More Grip = More Power To The Ground)

Lightweight Internals(Well since High C/R Pistons Add HP I don't think it could be here, But Lighter Then Stock Rods and a Knifed and Polished Crank can Give Better Response and Rev Up Faster)


Things Resisting Power:
Electric Fans(Remove Clutch Fan - Less Resistance)

Power Steering(I Like Mine, but it can be Removed)

A/C(You Can Remove It but it gets damn hot here so, NO!)

EGR(Doesn't Do me Much So It's Gone)

Intake Mani Coolant Bypass(Bypass The Coolant to the Intake Mani cause all it does is heat it up when you get going so, useless to me)

Secondary Intake Butterfly's(Used For Low End, But Lets Face it, w/ a 96mm Stroke it's got more then enough Low-end)
Synthetic Fluids(Said To Reduce Resistance But IDK, Worth A Try)

Charcoal Canister(Well Doesn't Really Add or Resist Power but it's dead weight so)

Crank Scraper/Windage Tray(It cuts windage In The Crank Case and Can Free Up about 5hp)


Also Reducing Unsprung Weight:
Suspension Components(I don't think they're much but whatever)

Rims and Tires(Lighter than Stock but Giving more Grip, is a definite Plus)

Probably The Best Mods You Could Ever Do: Weight Reduction

Link To Me Original N/A Guide Thread
 
#5 ·
i honestly think you should combine all your sticky worthy post into one. you have a shit ton of great post, but i think the top of the forum section will be cluttered with your threads....
 
#6 · (Edited)
Well it's not something Thats been asked of alot or mentioned. But it's good for someone who is piecing together there build were there EMS doesn't come w/ the harness or the simple fact that they dont want to cut/splice there Factory Harness. I've spent a great amount of time searching for these patch and conversion harnesses and let me tell you, it wasnt as easy as the honda guys let me tell you.

These are the harnesses they offer

Boomslang:
eManage PnP Harness: Both S13 & S14, Auto & Manual
eManage Ultimate PnP Harness: Both S13 & S14, Auto & Manual, All Sensor Inputs (Air & Water Temp, Knock)
S-AFC NEo PnP: Both S13 & S14, A & M
S-AFC II PnP: Both 13 & 14, A & M
S-AFC PnP: Both 13 & 14, A & M
Factory Harness Extentions: Both 13 & 14

Rywire:
S14 to S13 ECU Conversion Harness
 
#7 · (Edited)
To End all of this 3" Exhaust/Back-pressure stuff w/ the KA's

Image


Were gonna Avg. out the two 60mm's so we get 136whp and 146wtrq

Now for the 80mm were also gonna do the same thing and we get 144whp and 145wtrq

So all in all you do nothing but gain with a 3" Exhaust, so the 3" has 1 less lbs of trq, I'm sure that could be avg'd out with another dyno run or even lower the 60mm numbers if another run was done.
 
#12 ·
Determining IM Runner Length:
The general rule is that you should begin with a runner length of 178mm for a 10,000 rpm peak torque location, from the intake opening to the plenum chamber. You add 43mm to the runner length for every 1000 rpm that you want the peak torque to occur before the 10,000 rpm.

So, for instance, if peak torque should occur at 4,500 rpm the total runner length should be 178mm + (5.5 x 43mm) = 415mm.

Our Intake Runners are aprrox. ~430mm

Determining IM Runner Diameter:
You can calculate the ideal runner diameter by the equation:

SQRT [ (target rpm for peak torque x Displacement x VE) / (V x 18.5) ]

SQRT = square root

VE = Volumetric Efficiency in %

V is the velocity of the air flow in the IM plenum for resonance (usually estimated at 180 ft/sec max.)[/FONT]
Displacement in Liters (2.4)

ex.

So if we want peak torque at 4500 rpm at 65% VE for an KA, VE = 0.65

SQRT [(4500x 2.4L x 0.65 )/ (180 x 18.5)] = [(4500 x 2.4 x 0.65)/(3330)]

= 1.45 in. or 36.9 mm is the ideal runner diameter. (1 in = 25.4 mm)


Stock Intake Runner Dia. = 44.4 mm or 1.74 in (Ideal for 6500rpm)





Just curious where you got your Formulas from..

I used two different sources:

Four Stroke Performance Tuning by A. Graham Bell
Desktop Dynos by Larry Atherton

And did a spread sheet...

http://www.riley-music.com/BowsStuff/TunedIntakeandExhaustdesigns.xls
 
#13 ·
I got mine from David Vizard, He wrote some books on Intake Manifolds and stuff.
I mean I know there a many diffrent methods and calculations, it's just this is one that I found. I mean if you would like to share your method with us that seems more valid I guess you could say, I would be more then happy to use your stuff instead :)
 
#14 ·
Check out the Spreadsheet, my friend...

Even has some header design stuff in it... ;)
 
#16 ·
I used three different sources:

Four Stroke Performance Tuning by A. Graham Bell
Desktop Dynos by Larry Atherton


and also an older book (circa 1967) called "Scientific Design of Intake and Exhaust Systems" by Philip H Smith
 
#19 ·
all 3 books cover both subjects.

For my Money, everyone interested in building a performance engine should read Four Stroke Performance Tuning by A. Graham Bell